A Taste of Sage Read online

  Contents

  Cover

  Title Page

  Prologue

  1. Lumi

  2. Julien

  3. Lumi

  4. Lumi

  5. Julien

  6. Lumi

  7. Lumi

  8. Julien

  9. Lumi

  10. Lumi

  11. Julien

  12. Lumi

  13. Julien

  14. Lumi

  15. Julien

  16. Lumi

  17. Lumi

  18. Lumi

  19. Lumi

  20. Julien

  21. Lumi

  22. Julien

  23. Lumi

  24. Julien

  25. Julien

  26. Lumi

  27. Julien

  28. Lumi

  29. Julien

  30. Lumi

  31. Julien

  32. Lumi

  33. Julien

  34. Lumi

  35. Julien

  36. Lumi

  37. Lumi

  38. Lumi

  39. Lumi

  40. Julien

  41. Lumi

  42. Julien

  43. Lumi

  44. Julien

  45. Lumi

  46. Lumi

  47. Lumi

  48. Julien

  Epilogue: One Year Later

  Author’s Note

  Acknowledgments

  P.S. Insights, Interviews & More . . .*

  About the Author

  About the Book

  Read On

  Copyright

  About the Publisher

  Prologue

  “Are the plátanos ready, Magda?” Lumi Santana called to her sous chef. She stirred the cauldron at hand, turning over juicy sautéed shrimp, glossy slivers of bell pepper, and rings of sliced onion.

  “Ready, Chef,” Magda said, laying a tray of still-sizzling green plantain rounds on the butcher block table behind Lumi.

  They mashed the plantains in a huge pilón, a mortar and pestle Lumi had received as a gift three years ago for her twenty-ninth birthday. Between strokes of the mortar, she browned a little garlic on the stove, inhaling the rich, buttery aroma. When it was done, she shook it out over the plantain mixture.

  She folded in the sautéed shrimp and then, using a square bowl, made many little pyramids of mofongo. Each one was plated with a helping of shrimp sauce and an edible ginger flower.

  “Chef, we have two tables,” Giselle, Caraluna’s only waitress, said.

  “Okay. Send out the first course,” Lumi told Giselle. To herself, she said, “We’re missing something in this kitchen . . . Oh, music!”

  She chose a Spotify playlist she’d made for cooking instead of playing the radio, despite the fact that turning the radio on to her favorite station felt to her like putting her finger on the pulse of her neighborhood.

  Plates of beets on a bed of arugula sprinkled with finely chopped queso de hoja and sides of fresh plantain chips began their trip from the kitchen island to the two occupied round tables in Caraluna’s dining room.

  “Do we need another starter for tonight? I can make some alcapurrias, just like the ones we used to make back home in Puerto Rico,” Magda said.

  “I think we’ll stay with the salad, because I still have a full crate of arugula that needs to go today. But another day, that would be amazing,” Lumi said.

  Minutes later, the dishes traveled back to the kitchen completely empty, and it was time for the shrimp mofongo to make the trek.

  “Chef, we have two more tables,” Giselle said.

  “Great. There are more salads ready on the island.”

  Once she was done cleaning her station, Lumi peeked out the round window on the kitchen door into the dining room. At the first table, a woman took a bite of the mofongo, and Lumi watched as a smile spread across her face.

  “This is amazing!” said a man sitting at the second table.

  “Yes. Best mofongo I ever had. The taste is slightly different than traditional, but I like it even better,” said his companion.

  She could listen to them all night.

  “Okay, the first two tables need dessert. And we now have a fifth,” Giselle said.

  Lumi gestured toward the kitchen island, where bowls of majarete, sweet corn pudding, infused with lavender extract, were lined up right behind the salads.

  Minutes later, the empty bowls came back to the kitchen, and with them, more compliments for the chef.

  After the first wave of guests dwindled, Lumi left Magda and Giselle to sit down at her tiny desk. She pulled out a sheaf of papers and smiled to herself as she reviewed the receipts from the day’s seafood and vegetable deliveries. It was happening. Caraluna was finally real, just like she had dreamed all those years ago.

  1

  Lumi

  When Lumi Santana got to her restaurant, she found Magda and Diego, the line cook, standing over a cauldron of sancocho, complaining that the earthy root vegetable stew just wasn’t thickening. Lumi grabbed a bowl of squash puree left over from the previous weekend’s wedding and stirred it in at an impressive clip.

  “Stir with purpose, my friends,” Lumi said. “Doors open in thirty-five minutes.”

  She pulled a lavender silicone oven glove off a stainless steel hook. Aside from the stainless steel utensils, everything in Caraluna’s kitchen was purple: the walls, the appliances, the mixing bowls. A sole pop of yellow came from her aunt’s cheery sunflower painting, which hung on the oak door leading to her back office. The only thing black in the whole place was the chalkboard Lumi put out for holiday specials. Caraluna ran specials on every holiday except Father’s Day. No reason to offer specials on a holiday she’d never celebrated.

  “What else are we making besides sancocho tonight, boss?” Magda asked as she stirred the cauldron with a well-muscled arm. Lumi ran Caraluna the same way the down-home Dominican and Cuban restaurants did during her childhood in Miami. These small, colorful establishments usually had only one chef and often no menu. The day’s offerings were whatever the chef felt like making based on the ingredients on hand. The variety on the menu was smaller, but patrons could be sure that their meal was cooked fresh. Every day was as much of an adventure for the staff as it was for Lumi, as she stood in front of the pantry to see what she had and what she could create from it.

  Together, Lumi and Diego picked out the ingredients for an avocado salad, saffron rice, and a spiced coconut pudding to accompany the sancocho, which Magda kept stirring. While Magda and Diego worked on the side dishes, Lumi pulled out a bag of flour and started making some fresh tortillas for an enchilada casserole. She loved that Caraluna fused the Dominican cuisine of her childhood with dishes from all over the world.

  She scraped the griddle of the tiny burned scraps of dough that remained from last night’s shrimp roti and placed the tortillas on the grill. She flipped the tortillas with a deft flick of her wrist. When they were done bubbling, she upended them onto a periwinkle earthenware plate. Next, Lumi layered the fresh tortillas into a glass dish, alternating layers of crumbled savory cotija cheese and tart homemade tomato salsa. She popped the dish into the oven, and thirty minutes later, gloves on hands, she removed the casserole just in time for the doors to open.

  While Lumi prepared the food, Magda wrote the specials on the chalkboard in neon-green chalk. Within minutes, a gray-haired couple wandered in, the first guests of the night. The man was tall, with straight, well-combed hair parted to the side, and he wore a plaid lumberjack vest. The woman was of average height and wore a kukui nut necklace that matched her sepia skin. Giselle greeted them and allowed them to choose whichever table they liked. They chose a corner table and began perusing the specials board.

/>   Next came a young woman with blue hair who was dining by herself. Giselle seated her at the table opposite the couple, and she promptly retrieved a dog-eared book from her messenger bag. Lumi pulled herself away from the window to the dining room and set her sights on the entrées waiting to be plated.

  With the sancocho done, Magda and Diego ladled hearty portions into Caraluna’s signature moon-print ceramic bowls. From her place in the kitchen, Lumi stole one more peek at her guests again.

  She loved to see her customers relaxing in this space she had planned with exactly that goal. Glancing at the couple again, she thought she might recognize the woman and hoped she would get a moment later to say hello.

  Giselle brought out the avocado salad first, followed by the enchilada casserole, the sancocho, and saffron rice. Her diners dug in at once, oohing and aahing over the brilliant array of colors, tastes, and textures. The enchiladas had taken on a toothsome crunch after being baked and provided a perfect balance for the wonderfully spiced stew, with its tender chunks of braised goat and roasted pumpkin.

  The couple sent their compliments to the kitchen, and Lumi decided it was only right to come out and thank them herself. More than anything, she wanted to meet this couple who seemed so sophisticated. She smiled as she approached their table, and they smiled in return.

  “I was just telling our waitress how excellent the meal was,” the woman said. “I’m Glenda and this is my husband, Jonathan.” She gestured to the man, and he nodded back with a kind countenance.

  “Iluminada Santana,” Lumi said. “Nice to meet you both.”

  “It’s lovely to meet you, Iluminada. Tell me,” Glenda asked, “do you do much business here?”

  Lumi froze, staring blankly at her inquisitive guests. “W-why do you ask?” she said.

  Glenda cleared her throat. “Well, I’m retired now, but I used to own Pesce di Mare, a seafood restaurant in Morningside Heights.”

  Lumi nodded as this new information registered in her brain. So that’s where she’d seen her. She had been to Pesce di Mare a couple years back, when she was still in culinary school.

  “As you can imagine,” Glenda continued, “I know a couple of things about this business.” She cast her gaze toward the rest of the restaurant with a sympathetic frown. “It’s just that the food is too excellent for you to have this many empty tables on a Thursday night.”

  Lumi sighed. She was not in the mood to get schooled by one of her patrons, even if it was a fellow restaurant owner.

  “Have you thought about working with a set menu?” Glenda asked.

  Lumi backed up a step. “You know, I should check on the coconut pudding,” she said.

  “Please don’t take it personally, honey. Look, here’s my card if there’s anything I can ever do for you,” Glenda said, holding out a crisp white paper square.

  Glenda and Jonathan exchanged glances as Lumi took the card, thanked her quickly, and hightailed it to the kitchen. She swung the door open and almost hit Diego and Magda, who were hurriedly shoving away a flask of rum.

  “Wait. Give that to me,” Lumi said.

  The two watched in shock as Lumi poured herself a shot and downed it in one gulp. Magda peered out the kitchen window and then shrugged to herself and started preparing Lumi a small bowl of sancocho. She added a sprinkle of dried bacon and some sprigs of cilantro.

  “Thank you, Magda,” Lumi said with an appreciative sigh as Magda handed her the bowl and winked at her.

  Lumi willed herself to sit down at the tiny wooden card table in her office and eat her stew. The table was the only vestige of her ex-boyfriend Colton left in her restaurant. He bought it for her at a yard sale he’d stumbled upon while in Newark for one of his slam poetry gigs. She commanded herself to stop that train of thought and focus on her bowl of stew. As she tasted the first spoonful, her shoulders softened and the tightness in her chest eased. Leave it to Magda to suffuse every stew with motherly concern. The warmth spread through her belly and gradually relieved the urge to scream, which had mounted in her throat during the conversation with Glenda and her husband. The subject was never far from her mind, but what else could she do when she was already giving it all she had?

  LUMI’S SIMPLE SANCOCHO

  Serves 8

  1 tablespoon vegetable oil (not olive)

  1 tablespoon brown sugar

  6 cloves garlic

  1 tbsp. black pepper

  1 large red onion

  1 pound beef cubes or oxtail

  1 pound goat

  10 cups water

  1 cup auyama (West Indies squash), diced

  3 carrots, peeled and diced

  2 ears of corn, shucked and cut into 1-inch rounds

  2 cups yuca, peeled and diced

  1 cup yautia, peeled and diced

  1⁄3 cup cilantro, chopped

  juice of 1 bitter orange

  salt, to taste

  cooked white rice, to serve

  Mash garlic in a mortar and pestle. Dice onion. Season the meats with the salt, pepper, cilantro, onion, and juice of the bitter orange. Heat the oil on medium high in a large Dutch oven or “caldero” and add the sugar. When the sugar is bubbling, add the meats and brown them on all sides. When they are thoroughly browned, add the water and the vegetables. Bring to a boil and then simmer until all the ingredients are cooked through, about 1 hour and 20 minutes. Serve with white rice.

  Note: Chicken and pork are also commonly used instead of or in addition to beef and goat. Plátano is also a traditional addition that was left out here due to flavor preference.

  AVOCADO SALAD

  Serves 4

  4 ripe avocados (not overripe)

  1/2 red onion

  1/4 cup olive oil

  juice of 1 lime

  Split each avocado, remove the pit, scoop out the flesh, and dice into bite-sized chunks. Dice the onion, setting aside some for garnish. Combine the avocado, onion, olive oil, and lime juice and toss. Sprinkle diced onions on top to serve.

  2

  Julien

  Julien Dax wiped the sweat from his brow with one freckled forearm, sweeping back a stray crimson lock. There had been five steak au poivre orders in the last twenty minutes, and he had managed to churn them all out without missing a beat. Out of the corner of his eye he spotted his sous chef, Simon, sitting in a chair and checking the latest Instagram posts from Paris. He gritted his teeth.

  Before he could ask Simon how the duck à l’orange was coming along, the door from the dining room swung open. In stepped Fallon, waitress par excellence, a puzzled look wrinkling her rosy forehead.

  “What’s wrong?” Julien asked.

  Fallon sighed. “Chef, a diner has complained that there’s no ketchup . . . again.”

  “Hmm.” Julien nodded, and before she could say anything more, he barreled into the dining room. His gaze bounced off the cream-colored walls, from one fully seated round table to the next.

  “Who asked for ketchup here?”

  A bespectacled man stood up and raised his hand at the table nearest the door.

  “Educate your taste buds, sir. This is a three-star restaurant; we don’t carry that red abomination here. However, I will be happy to provide you with béarnaise, rouille, or tarragon rémoulade on the house. Does that settle this concern?”

  The diner shook his head. “No. I want ketchup.”

  “Well, I want a gold boat,” Julien replied, “but that doesn’t seem to be happening anytime soon either.”

  The man narrowed his eyes. “I’m writing you a bad review on Yelp as soon as I get home.”

  “Do as you may, sir,” Julien said. “No one I care about will be dismayed by the lack of ketchup on these premises. And please feel free to get out of my restaurant. What you ate of your meal is on the house.”

  The man stumbled back and then quickly ran for the door as the other diners gaped on.

  “That’s that,” Julien said. He contemplated taking a small bow, but instead he strod
e back into the kitchen.

  “It’s true,” Simon said without looking up, “that steak was dry.”

  Julien turned on his heel to face him. “How would you know?” he asked. “You didn’t try it. You’ve hardly done a thing tonight besides check the headlines of Le Monde. You are here, Simon, you are here in New York. I’d advise you to get your head around that.”

  “What if I don’t want to?” Simon sniffed, scrolling down his phone screen once more.

  “After I spent two thousand dollars to bring you here and weeks helping you get set up? Well, then, I would say eat shit.”

  “The nerve! You know what? I’ve run out of reasons to put up with your attitude. Adieu, Julien,” Simon said, snapping a nearby dish towel onto the floor and storming out.

  Julien shrugged and went back to grinding the peppercorns. It wasn’t until he texted Simon later that night and he replied with a knife emoji that Julien understood Simon was not coming back to DAX.

  3

  Lumi

  At six o’clock on weekdays on West 218th Street, the pungent smell of doughnut grease hung heavy in the air. Lumi could not understand how the Twin Donut staff could be unaware that cheap oil being used to fry at too-low temperatures produced a nauseating stench. The worst part of it was that it covered up the smells of the other food that she loved being made on that same street, like the aroma of long-grain rice cooking to perfection in so many households.

  The rice scent trickled in through her door, since she had her shutters closed tight, befitting the chilly November Monday. Getting used to the New York winters was a step that Lumi had skipped. She flicked on her natural light therapy lamp and settled onto the burgundy velour couch with a box of pistachio cream puffs that Magda had made her during the downtime that afternoon.

  No sooner had she undone the purple grosgrain ribbon than her phone began to ring. She sighed, eyeing the cream puffs with longing. Rafelina, read the screen. She considered covering it with a pillow and telling her friend and accountant that she was in yoga.

  Reluctantly, she pressed the “talk” button and raised the phone to her ear. “Hey, Rafi,” she said, trying to sound upbeat.